Pattern for drafting garments.



L. S. DORSOGNA 6: P. CANE.

PATTERN FOR DRAFTING GARMENTS.

APPLICATION FILED 13130.19, 1909.

1,078,576. Patented Nov. 11-, 1913.

2 SHEETSSHEET l.

coLuMuM PLANOGRAPH COHWASHINGTVON n. c

L. S. DORSOGNA & P. CANE.

PATTERN FOR. DRAFTING GARMENTS' APPLICATION FILED DEC. 10, 1909.

Patented Nov. 11, 1913.

2 SHBETFSHBET 2.

LOUIS S. DORSQGNA' AND PIETEO CANE, 01F PHILADELPHIA, PENNSYLVANIA.

PATTERN FOREDVRAFTING GARMENTS.

Lorenzo.

To all whom it may concern: p I

Be it known that we, LOUIS nOnsooNA and Pin rno CANE, citizens of the United States, and residents of Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, have invented certain Improve- Figure 1, is a view illustrating a piece of fabric as cut and designed to form the front of a coat, in this particular instance a womans coat; Fig. 2,is a View illustrating such piece of fabric after it has undergone a shaping process possible with the use of our invention; Fig. 3, is a sectional adjustable pattern form constructed in accordance with our invention, and Fi 4:, is an end elevation of a portion of the same showing the manner in which it may be adjusted to the curves of the body.

All fabrics employed for use in the manufacture of clothing are flat, andin applying it to the human body after cutting it in the necessary sections to form a garment, it is necessary that it be stretched in some parts and shrunk in others in order that it may conform to the dilferent curves of the hollows and prominences of the human form. Heretofore this has been done largely by guesswork upon the part of the tailor or cutter, for the amount to be stretched or shrunk in and the exact places for such stretching or shrinking is never precisely known. While it is possible to make meas urements for these several points, it has been found in practice that such measure ments never give the exact results necessary for a perfect fit or conformation of the fabric to the body. With our improved apparatus, it is possible to determine exactly the precise places at which the fabric must be stretched or shrunk, and the extent of stretching or working in as the shrinking operation is termed. 7e believe that we have avoided by said improvements the cause of former defects in the preparation rear Specification 01" Letters Patent.

person it is intended for.

Patented new. 11, 1913.

Application aieanecember 10, 1909. "Serial No. 532,471.

of garments, and have changed the guess work heretofore in use to an unmistakable certainty.

In the pattern illustrated in Fig. 3, which 11119.37 be the front of a body garment, we

provide a structure comprising adjustable str ps of flexible material soconstructed that it may be disposed over the frame of i the human body and curved as maybe necessary to take care of the hollows or prominences of such body, and the particular fea ture of our invention is the arrangement of such pattern with special parts which may be stretched or contracted for the purpose of indicating the amount of material to be stretched or worked in.

Upon reference to Fig. 2, 1t will be noted that we have shown a number of spaces covered by dotted lines, and it is at these points that the stretching and shrinking or working in of the fabric is to be acco1nplished; the curved lines representing points where shrinkage is to be effected, and straight lines indicating points where stretching to be effected. The marginal lines infull lndicatc the original shape of the fabric such as shown in Fig. 1, while the dotted marginal lines indicate the shape of the fabric after it has been changed to fitthe particular To determine the extent of this stretching, the following means are employed. The structure shown in Fig.- 3, has a number of diagonally dis} posed bars 10; such bars being connected in all instances to the bars 11 forming the marginal lines of the pattern, and being confined by screw members 12. All of the sections are sealed in inches and fractions of an inch. When the pattern is placed upon the human body, the movably mounted sections are adjusted so as to cause such pattern to conform to all the hollows or prominences of such body, and Fig. t shows an approximate shape of the pattern in conforming to the side contour ofa female figure, in which the portion indicated by the bracket (1. is that extending under the arm; the portion indicated by the bracket 6 is that directly at the waist, and the portion indicated at c is that passing over the hips. This particular part of the pattern has three sets of diagonal bars 10 to effect a curvature of themarginal bars 11, and therefore when the pattern is placed upon the body, these bars will be adjusted relatively to the portion over which such marginal bars pass.

at such oint the dia 'onal bars will he a ,II

brought together, While at the part ini-.

cated by the bracket 0 there is some considerable convexity, and the diagonal bars at this pointWill be separated to take care of the same. The amount of such separation is scaled from a fixed point at which the bars are disposed when the pattern is lying hat, and hence it is a simple matter to ascertain the amount of contraction and expansion the marginal portion of the pattern has undergone in conforming to the body, so that when (the same is brought to its fiat condition again to out the garment, the diiie rence between such flat condition and the curved condition Will be known, and hence it will be possible to stretch or Work in the material necessary to insure that the section of cloth forming such portion of the garment conforms exactly to 'thehuman figure, and will therefore set or hang in place Without bulging, wrinkling or compressing. The diagonal bars are adjustable and are preferably anchored at the points 13 when the Width of the particular-section or iportion'of the pattern is determined, and the movement of the ends of said bars connected to the marginal sections or strips of the pattern is in the arc of a circle of which the anchoring point is the center. These anchoring points may serve for a :plurality of diagonal bars, independently movable.

Vhil'e 'We have shown and described our structure with reference to one portion of a Womans garment, it Will be understood, of

course, that similar pattern structures may be employed in connection With any portion of such "arment, and with any other garment designed to closely fit the human form.

We claim: In apparatus for preparing cloth sections subsequently connected together to form garments or pattern sheets fIOIlI'WlllCh such cloth sections may be cut, comprisin a pinrality oi sectional adjustably jointed strips to 'fit over the human figure and conform to the contour and curvature of the same, the combination'o'f marginal elements made up of a plurality of longitudinally adjustable pieces, clamping devices for securing said pieces "together, bars diagonally disposed with respect to'said adjustable marginal pieces and connected thereto by the clamping devices for said pieces, said bars serving to hold the marginal pieces in position after an expansion or contraction in the length of said marginal pieces to cause the same to follow the contourof that 'portion of -the body over which they are placed, a plurality of sections orpieces adjustably connected together and disposed substantially midway of the marginal pieces, said mid strip forming an anchorage for said diagonal bars whereby the marginal sectional pieces'connected to the same may be held in their adjusted positions WithTespect to said mid strip, "and means forclamping the diagonal bars to said mid strip. I

"In testimony whereof, We have signed our names to this specification in the presence of tWo subscribing Witnesses.

LOUIS S. "DORSOGNA. PIETRO CANE.

lVitnesses MURRAY 0. Borne, WM. A. BARR.

Copies of this patent may be obtained'for five cents each, by addressing the Commissioner o f Patents, -Wa'shingt0n,'1) G. 

